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      唐朝服飾民風特點,唐朝女裝服飾圖片,唐朝時期民風服裝

      時間:2015-12-12 13:22來源:未知 作者:admin 點擊:
      唐高祖李淵于621年正式頒布東輿衣服之令,對皇帝、皇后、群臣百官、命婦、土庶等各級各等人士的衣著、色彩、佩帶諸方面都作了詳細的規定,唐朝的衣冠制度正式確立。

        例如唐朝服飾色彩規定:黃色只有皇帝和皇室親臣、貴臣才可穿用,他人穿用則為犯罪,因此黃色為皇權的特殊象征。另外,還以服裝的顏色區分官職品級:三品以上服紫色,五品以上服朱色,六品為綠色,七品為青色。

      唐朝女子服飾
      唐朝女子服飾


          唐代的婦女服飾,是歷代中的佼佼者。衣料質地考究,造型雍容華貴,裝扮配飾富麗堂皇。

        唐都長安不僅是當時中國的政治、經濟、文化中心,同時也是東西方文化交流的中心。與朝鮮、日本、波斯等國貿易、文化交流頻繁。唐朝服飾形成了獨特的開放浪漫風格。袒胸、裸臂、披紗、大袖、長裙是唐代婦女最典型著裝形象。

        唐朝年輕女子不受保守傳統的約束,她們不僅可以穿袒露胸臂的寬領服裝,甚至穿上胡服男裝,在街上策馬揚鞭,政府和社會還允許女性享有選擇配偶和離婚的自由。


        唐代女裝主要是衫、裙、帔,還有短袖半臂衫(套穿在長衫外面)。最時興的女子衣著是襦裙,即短上衣加長裙,裙腰以綢帶高系,幾乎及腋下。
      唐朝服飾民風特點,唐朝女裝服飾圖片

          唐代文官,主要服飾為幞頭圓領窄袖袍衫,幞頭的兩腳也有許多變化,到了晚唐五代,已由原來的軟腳改變成左右各一的硬腳。

      唐朝的宮廷女裝是不是各個朝代的宮廷女裝里最暴露的,最性感的
      唐朝的宮廷女裝

      任何一種藝術作品內容都反應著該藝術作品所在時代的美學風尚。迄今考古發現的唐代女性形象,一種是陶俑,一種是壁畫,她們大多穿著多彩而袒露的服裝,彰顯了唐代的盛世輝煌。
      長安在當時是一個世界性的大都市,聚集了吐蕃、日本、新羅、波斯、阿拉伯等國的人,唐朝是一個容各族、各國文化于一體,社會風氣開放的朝代。當時“胡風”盛行,女子不但穿胡服,還喜歡女扮男裝,穿衣相當隨意。
      從敦煌壁畫中,我們可以看到大量裸體的飛天,和上身半裸的舞妓反彈琵琶的畫像。
      唐太宗接受了南北朝時期宗教對政治影響的教訓,對宗教一律寬容,全國上下,信仰自由,所以當時儒、釋、道三教并立,而此時印度佛教的一支——密宗佛教也傳入中國。密宗教中有諸多女神形象,他們崇拜性,歡喜佛就是密宗佛教中的。或許出于這個原因,被譽為世界佛教藝術寶庫的敦煌壁畫才有大量開放式畫作吧。從這一點,我們也可以看出唐朝人開放的一面。
      “粉胸半掩疑暗雪”,“長留白雪占胸前”,“綺羅纖縷見肌膚”等詩句更是驗證了唐朝婦女著裝的暴露和大膽。不過這種著裝大多見于宮廷畫,因此這種服飾也只流行于宮廷和貴族中,普通人家的女子還是很樸素的。


      唐朝女性服飾比電視劇里講究


      導語:范冰冰版《武媚娘傳奇》正在湖南衛視熱播,眾多唐朝宮廷美女的服飾引起了很多觀眾的關注和議論。唐朝的宮廷女裝到底什么樣兒?真實的唐朝服飾和電視劇中的區別大嗎?大河報記者雖然不可能和大家一起“回到”唐朝去看個究竟,卻可以求教專家給大家解釋一二。

      從達官貴人到普通百姓,都很講究穿衣打扮
        河南博物院副院長、研究員李宏對古代服飾很有研究,并且她也看了《武媚娘傳奇》這部熱播大戲。“很華美,很時尚,看得出,該劇的服裝造型師是下了功夫的。”昨天大河報記者就此問題采訪李宏時,她這樣評價。李宏告訴記者,就現有史料來看,唐代男女服飾款式復雜、色彩絢麗是個不爭的事實,“特別是那時的女性服裝,充分展示了我國女性大氣、自信、飄逸、灑脫的精神面貌。”相比現代人,那時上至達官貴人,下到普通百姓,都很講究穿衣打扮。“比現代人更講究,一件衣服做上幾年是常事兒。”
        李宏介紹:“裙、衫、帔,這是唐時女裝的三要素,無論地位尊卑,家中貧富,這基本的3件是必不可少的。”唐朝牛僧孺的《玄怪錄》中記載了一位平民婦女的衣著:“小童捧箱,內有故青裙、白衫子、綠帔子”。再有《仙傳拾遺·許老翁》中說,唐時益州士曹柳某妻,“黃羅銀泥裙,五暈羅銀泥衫子,單絲羅紅地銀泥帔子,蓋益都之盛服也”。


        “衫”是唐代女性日常穿用的長袖上衣,式樣為窄袖短身。唐代各種文獻中,但凡提及日常女裝,上衣多稱作“衫子”、“衫”,如“藕絲衫子柳花裙”、“紅衫窄裹小擷臂”、“香衫窄袖裁”等。衫一般指單衣,到了冬天,則改用夾衣,也成為“夾衫”。
        李宏說,當時“衫”的樣式隨著年代的不同流行趨勢也不同。初唐時期流行窄袖衫,詩詞中就有“紅衫窄裹小擷臂”等描述;中晚唐時期,吹來一股西域風,漸漸流行“廣襦”(衫的一種),袖寬可達四尺,常是宮廷貴婦出席重要公開禮儀活動時穿著,這一點劇中范冰冰的著裝也有體現。
        衫的領子樣式也很復雜,根據出土的唐代陶俑、壁畫等文物可以看出,有直領對襟、交領、圓領對襟、圓領斜襟等多種形式,領型不同,暴露的幅度也大不相同,但不會像電視劇里那樣不分場合總露著,也不會露那么多。


        這就要發揮“帔”的作用了。“帔”常用輕透的紗、羅制成,相當于現代的披肩或者圍巾,長約兩米,那時婦女常旋繞于臂頸之間,半掩半露,更顯出一種含蓄美。


        再有就是“裙”,唐朝女子上身著“衫”,下身則穿“裙”。短衫長裙,裙腰系得很高,在腰部以上,甚至系于腋下,顯得裙子很長,樣式有點像韓劇里的韓服。

      著裝講究場合禮儀
        在電視劇《大明宮詞》里,周迅扮演的太平公主曾披著一件羽毛縫制的大氅向武則天“顯擺”,其實這只不過是現代人的想象。當時人們的著裝是很講究場合禮儀的,一向“傲嬌”的太平公主不太可能去穿一件舞姬穿的“工裝”。同樣的,武媚娘打馬球時一定會穿適合運動的窄袖“胡服”(相當于現在的運動裝),而不可能穿“廣襦”、披“紗帔”,不然就顯得太“二”了。

      穿著不得體會被嘲笑
        再有就是當時的人對著裝很重視,穿著不得體是會被嘲笑的。白居易在《上陽白發人》中描寫一個入宮后受冷落直至孤獨老去的宮女,她剛入宮時“臉似芙蓉胸似玉”,后來“紅顏漸老白發新”,但因為長期不跟外界往來,不了解“流行趨勢”,還穿著她年輕時的衣服:“小頭鞵履窄衣裳”,豈不知十幾年過去,這一身兒早已經“out”了,難怪詩人接下來會說:“外人不見見應笑,天寶末年時世妝。”

      發型、妝容也很講究
        李宏介紹說,唐代女性不僅著裝講究,發型、妝容更是繁復,并且鼓勵“創新”。光發髻就有鸚鵡髻、花髻、倭墜髻、墜馬髻等數十種之多,女人化妝再簡單也少不了這些程序:敷鉛粉──抹胭脂──畫黛眉──貼花鈿──描斜紅──涂唇脂。“春陰撲翠鈿”、“眉間翠鈿深”、“鵝黃剪出小花鈿”等詩句都是對唐代婦女貼花鈿的描寫。另外,唐朝的紡織染色技術已經很發達,女性大多喜愛色彩絢麗的裙子。后宮佳麗三千,身上裙子赤橙黃綠青藍紫,頭上發髻高聳,發飾叮當作響,臉上妝容“濃妝淡抹總相宜”,那場景,確實夠讓人眼花繚亂的。
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      更多精彩請看下頁:上一篇:康熙為什么選擇讓雍正當皇帝 下一篇:中亞的吐蕃帝國,吐蕃是現在的哪里
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